Maldives – Meerufenfushi
After the first dive in the Maldives, we now have time to look around the island extensively and explore all the changes that have taken place in recent years. The island is one of the largest of its kind. However, there are no cars or other motorized land vehicles here. The island can be easily circumnavigated on foot in 45 minutes. The dive center and 20 bungalows are grouped around the main house.
The main building consists of the kitchen and the restaurant, which is also a meeting place and communication centre. It is located about 30 meters from the beach and is surrounded by ancient tall coconut palms and dense mangrove bushes. We notice that relatively little has changed and mass tourism has not yet found its way here in a negative form.
The cuisine is simple but good. There is freshly caught fish every day, which the fishermen deliver with small dhoni boats. For a change, meat is also prepared on the grill on some days. The restaurant is open on all sides, so that in the evening a fresh sea breeze usually provides the necessary air conditioning.
The oceanic-tropical climate is determined by the monsoon winds. From December to April, the pleasant northeast monsoon blows with winds of 2 to 4 and relatively low regular rainfall. So the climate is actually very bearable. If you don’t go diving, look for a shady spot between the palm trees and enjoy the paradisiacal tranquility. Part of the island is crisscrossed by low mangrove bushes and is almost impossible to penetrate. There is also a lush vegetation on the island, which is favored by the tropical climate.
In the evenings, Brigitte and I regularly set off to explore the island. We walk around it along the beach. We regularly spot small baby sharks and rays that come directly to the beach. We have to be careful not to step on the many crabs that come out of their shelters in the evening and leave small sand castles everywhere on the beach.
Brigitte has made herself comfortable in the hammock for the time being. A shady spot is a must, as the direct sun cannot be enjoyed for too long with impunity. After the dive, the washed-out tachan suits are dried on the line.
There is a calm and peaceful atmosphere before sunset. The first bats are already getting ready to start the evening hunt for food. It is teeming with geckos, spiders and other small animals.
The water supply is secured by its own treatment plant. The salt water filtered in this way is not drinkable and always has a slightly brackish smell. However, it is sufficient for showering, although a slightly sticky layer of salt remains on the skin. We already know this feeling from our first stay. For newcomers, this is usually always a cause for complaints. Most people forget all too easily that we are not in Europe but in Asia.
The only danger you constantly expose yourself to on the island are the coconuts. They have a habit of rushing down from a height of 15 to 20 meters in the most impossible moments, without warning. This is particularly dangerous. So the gaze is always directed upwards with one eye. We have made it a habit to open some coconuts every day.
The milk is very tasty and the meat is very nutritious. With time and under the previous instruction of the islanders, we soon have the trick of opening out. So after a short acclimatization we feel like Robinson “temporary” again. It is amazing how quickly the hectic everyday life that we do to ourselves in Europe is forgotten and gives way to a more leisurely rhythm. Jürgen has a lot of fun with the diving knife, which is guided like a machete, to first knock off the outer layer of fiber and then open the shell of the coconut at the top.
For many of the originally inhabited islands, this is one of the main foodstuffs, except of course for the fruits, which the sea still has to offer in abundance. The fishermen come to the beach with their extremely manoeuvrable, small dhoni boats to sell freshly caught fish. Some fishermen also offer rare mussels, which they take out of the reefs while freediving. These beautifully drawn shells are extremely rare and were originally worn only for celebrations.
With the beginning of tourism on the islands, this has also become another source of income for fishermen. Of course, we reject the purchase offer. It is quite a picturesque sight to watch the boats emerge from a long distance as a small white dot from the deep blue water on the horizon. It is hard everyday life for the fishermen. But they are always cheerful and make a deeply satisfied impression on us. Some very tireless people want to go on a night dive and so the submersible leaves the jetty one last time for today. Further trips are not possible at night due to the lack of navigation and are also too dangerous because of the reefs.
Slowly the day is coming to an end and we once again admire the natural spectacle of the setting sun. We end the day with a can of tropical beer. Brigitte collects a few more interesting shells on the beach.
The sunset takes place very quickly. In a few minutes, the sun sinks into the sea and leaves a last firework display on the clouds. A fantastic day is coming to an end. It’s a good thing that we still have some of them ahead of us and don’t have to think about saying goodbye yet.
