The Coromandel Peninsula is located east of Auckland, on the other side of the Hauraki Gulf. Coromandel’s fascinating history is evident in the relics of the gold rush era, the logging dams and the ancient Maori pas (fortified villages). The past can also be found in the charming colonial architecture and historic buildings that are still preserved in various towns in the region.
An impressive, heavily forested mountain range rises right in the middle of the Coromandel Peninsula – bordered on all sides by miles of spectacular coastline. On the west coast, there is a never-ending string of beaches, bays and harbours, lined with pohutukawa trees (a tree native to New Zealand with red flowers).
On the eastern side of Coromandel, we find an amazing collection of white sand and surf beaches. We drive up the coastal road to the Square Kauri Tree, one of the largest and oldest trees on the Coromandel Peninsula. It is located on the road between Tapu and Coroglen, about a two-hour drive from Thames. The subtropical vegetation is simply impressive. Again and again, there are fantastic views of the beaches below from elevated locations.
New Zealand – Vegetation on the Coromandel Peninsula
From Cape Reinga to Auckland and on the Coromandel Peninsula, we find extensive mangrove forests that encompass entire stretches of coastline. Thousands of tracheas protrude from the mud to supply oxygen to the plants, which can grow up to 5 meters high. From Whitianga Wharf you can take the ferry to Stone Steps Wharf, the starting point of the Cook’s Coast. Front Beach, Flaxmill Bay, Shakespeare Cliff, Lonely Bay and Cooks Beach are all in close proximity.
At the foot of Shakespeare Cliff to the south is Flaxmill or Homestead Bay. It offers a sheltered anchorage for small boats. It is said that Captain Cook landed here with the Endeavour. On the south side of the cliff are Lonely Bay and Cooks Beach.
Lonely Bay is a narrow bay, cut off by cliffs and completely untouched – it’s only accessible from the Cook Memorial via a short steep footpath. After a long search, we find a narrow dirt road that is only suitable for an off-road vehicle. Big clamor for Brigitte.
but I decide to go down anyway. In narrow hairpin bends it goes down the mountain. Now there is no turning back. We drive at walking pace. In some places, the branches must first be cut aside. We need about 60 minutes for about 3 km. We would have been faster on foot.
Once at the bottom, a bay about 5 km long awaits us, which looks like it comes from another star in the evening sun. We look for a parking space for the night directly on the beach. There is not a soul to be seen far and wide. No footprints in the sand, no sound, nothing! Only the effects of a hurricane that probably swept through here not so long ago can be seen. Everywhere there are tree trunks and flotsam on the beach. A scenery like after a tsunami…..
…….the silence and solitude (except for the constant sound of the sea) is calming and exciting at the same time. We walk a bit along the beach to enjoy the setting sun. Huge uprooted tree trunks litter the beach. Entire palm trees have been torn out and stand loose in the ground as if decorated by a giant hand. We have a restless night, the storm that is coming up again tugs at our small motorhome. But we have to endure………….driving back the incline in the dark is almost impossible….
Coromandel’s inspiring natural beauty has meant that the area has become a haven for artists and artisans in recent years. The painter Hundertwasser also had his house and his sailing yacht here.
The cities of Thames and Coromandel used to be the scene of the gold rush. Today they are idyllic and interesting villages. To admire the bird life of Coromandel, it is best to walk on the wooden walkway through the mangroves to the hide.
We survived last night at Lonley Beach more or less well. After a few kilometers of driving, we find an equally dreamlike but tidier bay. We set up our motorhome a few meters away from the beach. The bay is about 6 kilometers long and is separated from the hinterland by a sand dune.
In the huge bay, apart from us, two people can be seen walking on the beach in the distance. For Brigitte, this is reassuring. So we are not “quite” alone.
New Zealand Peninsula – Miles of lonely beach on the Coromandel Peninsula
We spend the whole rest of the day here and also spend the night at this place. From Thames, you can walk the Rocky’s Goldmine Trail – a three-hour walk through the bush. It starts at Dickson Holiday Park. On the trail you have wonderful views of the Firth of Thames and the native rainforest that grows there. We are surrounded by giant ferns, man-sized grasses and small crystal-clear streams. A landscape that encourages you to dream and linger, far away from any mass tourism.
Coromandel is a preferred holiday destination for New Zealanders themselves. Their beachfront private cottages, called “Baches”, are available for rent. In addition, there are over 200 accommodation options:
luxurious cottages, motels, bed and breakfast, and campsites. Nevertheless, the atmosphere of peace, green wilderness and lonely mountains has not been disturbed by the careful development of some holiday resorts.
About half of the Coromandel Peninsula is under the protection of the Department of Conservation, including the Hahei Marine Reserve with its impressive limestone coastline as well as the rainforests of the volcanic mountains, where ancient giant kauri trees have survived the logging periods. The road to the north winds along the west coast of the peninsula, which is overgrown with pohutukawa trees, to the small villages of Coromandel and Colville.
The Pohutukawa is a spectacular native tree whose red flowers bloom around Christmas. Heading to the east coast, you’ll come to the stunning Mercury Bay. It is home to two famous beaches – the beautiful Cathedral Cove and the unique Hot Water Beach.
Hot Water Beach lives up to its name. At low tide, you can dig hot pools out of the sand near the rocks with a little diligence. Volcanic activity is rare on the Coromandel Peninsula. Hot Water Beach is also a good surf spot.
The Coromandel Peninsula is a paradise for anglers. In the most sought-after places, the rules for anglers have been drawn up. Fishing is only allowed for your own consumption. Fishing with nets is prohibited.
We try to secure our dinner with a self-made fishing line. After a few minutes, we succeed. A stately snapper wriggles on the hook. Scaled, gutted and grilled on an open fire, it tastes better to us than in any fish restaurant. The subtropical rainforest grows into the shore zones. The trees are overgrown with moss and creepers.
In the small coves, which are often only accessible from the sea, we find real water caves. Taking a boat to these bays, snorkeling a little, catching fresh fish and dozing in the sand after dinner is not only a dream but a lived reality. For many of the New Zealanders living here an everyday experience, for most “transients” an unforgettable adventure. We stay here for a few more days before we say goodbye to the Coromandel Peninsula.
One last time we enjoy the ride through the incomparable vegetation and look forward to new interesting impressions on our journey. Another nice way to “experience” the Coromandel Peninsula is to ride a mountain bike tour through pre-planned sections. The Kauaeranga Valley is particularly suitable for this. The road follows the Kauaeranga River and you can stop for a swim in a few spots. You can also drive up the coastal road to the Square Kauri Tree, one of the largest and oldest trees on the Coromandel Peninsula.
